Tracy I should have read your post
Al
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| Author: | Rossy [ Tue May 02, 2006 7:34 am ] |
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Hi guys, Soon I will be attempting to fashion my neck and wanted to get some input on where I can or should get a neck profile from. I don't know if this matters but I'm partial to smaller necks ie. Taylor's. Thanks again guys. I certainly wouldn't be able to do this without ya'll or certainly wouldn't be having as much fun trying to do it. Ross |
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| Author: | ATaylor [ Tue May 02, 2006 7:41 am ] |
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Hey Ross, I followed, to some extent, the profile provided in my StewMac plans for my first. I also made some reference to the shape, not the size, of my Taylor since it is so comfortable. That said, I sure am glad to have a wider neck than my late - 80's Taylor 510c. I've not played many other guitars than that and I'm really please to have a wider neck - so much easier - especially for more intricate fretboard work. |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Tue May 02, 2006 8:01 am ] |
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Well, you can get one of those "woodworker profile thingys" from any Home Depot/Lowes type of place. You know the kind, it enables you to take a profile of something like molding, etc. They usually cost about $6 bucks, give or take. You can then trace the pattern you just created onto a piece of cardboard/spruce/etc. for use as you see fit. You could then go around to various music stores with just the tool, and a scratch pad, and pick/choose/transcribe the type of neck you think you might like. Anyway, I bought one of those for that exact reason, copying a neck profile. Don Williams created what was, for me, the perfect neck. One day, I'd like to try and recreate it for myself on one of my own guitars. Just a thought. (Oops, Hesh beat me to the answer.) |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue May 02, 2006 8:01 am ] |
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I work mostly like Hesh - I have the FB widths done, then decide on what depth at the nut (usually between 810-860), then add about 50-60 thou for the 12th, then straight line to back ridge between those two points. Then its all by feel, depending on whether its a D, C, or soft V feel I am after. |
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| Author: | Joe Beaver [ Tue May 02, 2006 8:19 am ] |
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I have a tapered piece of wood I stick to the neck where the fingerboard will go then I use a wagner safe t planer and take the neck down to my choice of thickness, (about 9/16 at the 1 st fret & 11/16 at the 10th. Then I mark a line on each side of the neck parallel with the outside edge of the fingerboard (about 5/8" in more or less) and another line on the side of the neck about 5/16" up from the fingerboard. I rasp to these marks then just go by feel the rest of the way. If you use this approach don't take to much off in the initial rasp phase. It is hard to put back on. Good luck... |
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| Author: | Anthony Z [ Tue May 02, 2006 8:30 am ] |
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Ross -- Hesh/Bill were referring to a "Contour Gauge". StewMac has on its website tips on how to trace an existing neck and make a template from the tracing. I add 3/32" to the thickness of my neck at the first fret at the 10th fret. For example my 1-3/4" nut width - my neck is 13/16" at the first fret (incl 1/4" fretboard) and about 29/32" at the 10th. When carving a "D" or "C" shaped neck - I use a template with a: - 15/16" radius - 1" radius - 1-1/8" radius - 1-1/4" radius cut out of each side. I use the template as a guide to check that my neck is symetrical. I picked up the tip from either Benedetto's books or his video collection. |
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| Author: | tl507362 [ Tue May 02, 2006 9:01 am ] |
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I have the contour thingy from Home Depot and that works pretty good at copying the contour of a neck. Luthier Suppliers(my company) is working on a new product that will give you neck shapes for about 50 popular Acoustic Guitar, Mandolin, Banjo, and Electric guitar shapes. These contour gauges will contain about 12 pieces of information so you can exactly replicate the neck. The prototypes should be ready soon if all goes well. In the meantime, the stew-mac way to copy of neck is effective. Also, I've used the 5 min wood putty epoxy that comes in a tube. Put some wax paper over the neck first, then with a small piece of hardboard cut a slightly oversized neck shape and then put the wood putty epoxy around the edge of the rough neck shape and press onto the neck(on top of the wax paper) Let it sit for about 5 min then pull off and let dry. Do this on the first and 10th fret and there you have it. Good luck! Tracy |
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| Author: | A Peebels [ Tue May 02, 2006 9:45 am ] |
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Forget contour guages. This will work very nicely. I make neck contour templates by first wrapping thhe neck with Saran wrap , then taping it so that there are no wrinkles. Then I cut some rectangles of plywood about 4"x6" then I make oversize cutouts for the neck. Buy some plumbers epoxy paste and roll it into a rope about 3/8" and line the plywood then firmly perss it onto the plastic wrap protected neck at the first fret. It will dry in about 10 minutes and you will have a perfect cast of the neck at that point. Make several more at different points. Be sure to label them with guitar info and fret #. Al |
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| Author: | A Peebels [ Tue May 02, 2006 9:49 am ] |
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Tracy I should have read your post
Al |
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| Author: | Rossy [ Tue May 02, 2006 1:38 pm ] |
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Thanks guys. I'll have to read these replys some more to get a better understanding, but if you guys have any pictures handy of some of your processes that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your time and responses. Know that I really appreciate it. blessings, Ross |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Wed May 03, 2006 4:07 am ] |
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I find neck-carving to be one of the most fun parts of making a guitar. After getting the thickness cut (I use the Wagner planer with a shim under the nut end method) and drawing a line down the center, the rest is a wonderfully organic sculpting process. I do it by feel, and would only copy another neck at the request of a customer. Just don't touch that center line till the final sanding, take it slow, enjoy it, and create your own great neck shape. |
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| Author: | Rossy [ Thu May 04, 2006 8:08 am ] |
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Thanks again guys. What I do need though is the profile to cut the headstock angle and the curve going to the heel. Would you say these are pretty standard outlines and if so where should I get that? I figure I can try and shape it from there to the feel that I like. But the other angles must be pretty standard, right? Thanks again. Ross |
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| Author: | Anthony Z [ Thu May 04, 2006 10:32 pm ] |
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Ross -- Do you have the C&N book? If you don't its a worthwhile purchase. C&N explains how to layout a neck. Otherwise guitar plans available from StewMac, LMI, John Hall, Elderly Music will give you all the dimensions you need. I build my headstocks with a 14 degree angle -- but I think 15 degrees is pretty standard for flattops. |
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| Author: | Mike Mahar [ Thu May 04, 2006 11:18 pm ] |
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For a pictorial on Peebels's approach go to Mark Blanchard Neck Profile |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Fri May 05, 2006 6:59 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Mike Mahar] For a pictorial on Rossy's approach go to Mark Blanchard Neck Profile [/QUOTE] Well, now, that's pretty cool. I'd want to do a spot in between, though...say, fret 6, just 'cause I'm a beginner. You could probably do one "lengthwise" too, to get the sweep of a heel profile. |
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